Camping in the foothills of the Himalayas: A memorable trip to Rishikesh

It has been more than a year since I went back home, thanks to the coronavirus pandemic and travel restrictions. I miss home and more than that I miss travelling. So, it is no surprise that these days I frequently find myself browsing through old travel albums and reminiscing about the good old days. Out of the many weekend getaways and long summer breaks I took during my time in Delhi, one vacation that still stands out is the time when I went camping to Rishikesh alone.

Rishikesh, also known as the Yoga Capital of the World, is located in the foothills of the Himalayas beside the Ganges River. A rich topography of lush green alpine forests, verdant hills, rolling mountains and the gushing emerald-coloured water of the Ganges, Rishikesh is every traveller’s dream.

Located in the Indian state of Uttarakhand, this city is thronged by thousands of tourists every year. When I arrived, I knew that I’d love the city but I had no clue how much!

Camping in Shivpuri: A once-in-a-lifetime experience

The year was 2013 and I was a Trainee Writer at a Travel Magazine in Delhi at the time. I had just finished college and the training was a bit challenging. I had big dreams and I would work tirelessly all the time. However, truth be told, writing travel guides without actually going anywhere was getting frustrating. So, in what now seems like an impulsive moment, on a fine Saturday morning, I decided to head to Rishikesh alone in a rented car from Delhi.

After a five-hour drive, I arrived in the city. Online travel guides were not that big a thing in India back then so whatever information I had was from my friends and colleagues. I had heard a lot about a camping area called Shivpuri in Rishikesh. So, I bought myself an all-inclusive 2-night-3-days package for the camp where I was driven by the agency.

 If you have ever Googled “camping in Rishikesh”, you must have come across Shivpuri. Known as the “Abode of Lord Shiva”, Shivpuri is located around 20 km away from the main city. Nestled away from the hustle and bustle of the city, Shivpuri is a tranquil town located on the banks of the pristine river Ganga, and is known as the mecca of river rafting.

From bonfires to cliff jumping and river rafting to diving- Shivpuri offers it all. Plus, there are vast stretches of grey and white sandy beaches where you can easily spot Babas and monks practising meditation and yoga. 

From thrill to adventure and spirituality to peace- you get everything in Shivpuri- a small town surrounded by the snowy mountains and peaks of the Himalayan range. By the time I reached and settled in, it was dusk. All I was given was a tent, a cot, two blankets, a torch, two bed sheets and a pillow.

I set up my tent on the beach, made my bed and decided to explore the area. I could see three or four tents at some distance, endless forests on one side and rolling hills on the other. The water of the river was clear and pristine, the cool breeze was a comforting break from Delhi’s scorching heat and the sound of birds playing around in the forests was like music to my ears. I sat there looking at the breathtaking scenery around me, and it was soon dinner time. 

My night guard Bahadur and cook Sita came to escort me for dinner where I met this group of Russian girls who had been camping in the area for a week. They invited me to join in for the bonfire after dinner. We sang songs, exchanged stories and had a great time. By midnight, I was back in my tent, all tucked in and ready to sleep. However, the first night was scary- the wind howling angrily into the pitch-black night- I could barely sleep.

But all my fears and inhibitions went away when I unzipped my tent at 4 in the morning and stepped outside. I have never seen a morning so beautiful and serene. I sat on the beach mindlessly looking at the sky, listening to the gush of the water. In no time, chants of Om and sounds of bells from temples nearby filled the air. I felt cleansed, refreshed.

The thrills of river rafting in the Ganges

After my encounters with mesmerising natural and spiritual elements in the morning, I was ready for the day. I went river rafting from Brahmakumari to Ram Jhula. In Hinduism, River Ganga is considered holy. So, for us, at some level rafting in this river becomes somewhat more than just a water sport. 

I will never forget the adrenaline rush that I felt as I faced the wrath of the angry waves of the river and rafted my way from points A to B. As you raft from Brahmakumari to Ram Jhula, you come across exquisite beaches, quaint temples nestled atop hills and lush green forests.

The sceneries are magical and they transport you to some other universe. I remember during my rafting experience, I almost forgot where I’d come from and where I was heading back in a day or two. The concrete jungles and materialistic ambitions seemed like distant memories. I was in the now and I was living it. It felt good.

Let me warn you though- if you bruise like a peach be ready to come back from rafting with many scars on your body. You might not feel the injuries at the moment but the waves do hit you quite hard.

I also strongly recommend wearing layers and layers of good sea safe sunblock and carrying some money in a plastic bag because you will be damn hungry by the time you are done. Plus, there are some amazing Maggi points where they sell hot steaming  noodles in the middle of the river on rocks! The joy of eating is just another thing you don’t want to miss.

After river rafting, on the second night, I slept like a baby as I was super tired. One small tip for solo female travellers would be to hire a night guard and personal cook like I did. With those few extra bucks, your safety and meals are well taken care of. The guards are also registered and verified locals who are generally super helpful and kind, and the cooks are amazing Imas (Grand Mas) who will prepare delectable meals for you.

Exploring the city

On day two, I went out to explore the city. Rishikesh is home to numerous quaint temples that have intricate architecture and rich histories. Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula are must-visit sights. Triveni Ghat is also a must-visit. It is the biggest ghat in the city and the evening arti (prayer) here known as the Maha Arti is a vision. Conducted from 6 pm to 7 pm every day, this ritual is attended by thousands of devotees and tourists every single day.

One of my other favourite places in Rishikesh is the Geeta Press shop located in the Swarg Ashram. I bought several versions of the holy book Bhagavad Gita from here during my visit. You will find scriptures from different religions, historical books and self-help guides in this shop. Also, there are many hilltop cafes and restaurants around the city- so, you can take breaks and relax at one of these eateries whenever you like. 

The city is well connected- the Jolly Grant airport at Dehradun is the nearest airport to Rishikesh which is approximately 35 kilometres away. It is also easily accessible from Delhi via road. Buses and rented cars are available at Kashmiri Gate, New Delhi. You can also hail interstate rides through apps like Ola. 

If you are one of those people who seek peace, tranquillity and adventure- all in one single vacation, Rishikesh should be on the top of your post-COVID travel list. After all, we all could use some peace of mind after the year that we have had and the one that we still seem to be having!